You Too Can Be Flying This Summer!

You know you’ve been eyeballing those RC planes at your local hobby shop or favorite web site. It’s understandable to feel the need to stand by the sidelines and watch vs. participate when it comes to these exciting models. Let’s face it, there’s a lot more to flying an RC plane compared to an RC ground vehicle. You must maintain a certain speed, manage the wind, learn to take off, learn to land, be more conscious of your battery life, and of course, learn to control a vehicle on a whole other axis… Things can be pretty overwhelming. At the same time, flying has a feeling of freedom and excitement that’s hard to match on the ground.

This article is here to provide  answers to some of the most common questions most new fliers have when starting out in the world of RC planes. We hope this helps make your transition to the skies a fun and exciting experience.
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Should I get a flight simulator?

Flight simulators are a great place to start, but should be treated as a training tool for orientation, different types of planes, and incorporating new features like flaps or landing gear, or practicing high risk maneuvers. No flight simulator, no mater how realistic, will ever prepare you for how an RC plane handles in reality. You don’t NEED to start with a simulator, but if you do, you should transition into flying in reality as quickly as possible.

What kind of plane should I buy?

No RC Warbirds…

Seriously. No RC Warbirds, or ducted fan jets for that matter.

If an RC warbird or other low wing plane is your ultimate goal, that’s great. However, starting with a low wing, scale RC plane will almost always end in frustration. For many, their first plane will generally be a high wing trainer (High and low wing defined by where the wing intersects the body or “fuselage” of the airplane.), Cessna, or Piper Cub style plane with a dihedral type wing.

A Dihedral wing will be more forgiving and will help the plane level out during flight. This style of wing is identified as one that is angled upward slightly from where the wings meet the fuselage. An entry-level trainer will generally have just 3 channels: throttle (turns the prop, thereby moving the plane forward.), elevator (Lifts or lowers the nose of the plane.), and rudder (shifts the nose of the plane left or right.).

For those who have already conquered 3 channel flight or want to start at a more advanced level should look at a 4-channel plane.  A 4-channel plane features a Prop (Moves you forward.), elevator (Lifts or lowers the nose of the plane.), rudder (shifts the nose of the plane left or right.), and ailerons (rotates the plane like a cork screw left or right).

If you plan to start with a 4 channel plane, you will want to find a large wing glider style plane like the JPower Skysurfer. This plane will provide a greater challenge to the new flier or be a great second plane for someone that started on a high wing trainer.

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Where can I get advice when I need it?

Find a flying friend. Sometimes this is easy to do sometimes it is not. Check your local hobby shop for groups or clubs that meet regularly. Check your area for local flying fields (Airfield locator) and ask frequent fliers at the field if they would be willing to help. You’ll find most veteran pilots are more than happy to help you with your adventure in flight.

Still can’t find someone? From your local hobby shop to online message boards, there is a wealth of information out there waiting for you to tap into it. Want to know how to upgrade your plane? Need to know what prop works best for your plane? Can’t get your plane to trim out properly in flight? Do you need to learn what “trim out” means?? All of this info is out there on message boards or at your local hobby shop. All you need to do is ask. Usually there’s a small army willing to give you advice. (Our advice is get a few opinions on ANYTHING you’re asking online as there will ALWAYS be varying opinions.)

Okay, all of that is fine and good, but do you have any actual TIPS for flying?

Alright, easy there, we can tell you’re already getting anxious to get out there and pilot your own plane, so here’s our flying advice:

Pick a day with little to no wind. A little wind is actually preferable as long as it’s somewhat consistent. Always launch and land your plane flying into the wind. By flying into (or against) the wind, your plane’s motor will not have to work as hard to create “lift”.

When heading out to fly, find a large open area clear of trees and power lines preferably with the sun at your back. When you fly, keep the plane in front of you and try not to let it get so far away that you cannot determine orientation. Yet, you should be high enough that you can make a mistake or two and still come out on top. The old rule of RC flight is “fly three mistakes high”.

When you put a plane in the air for the first time, you may need to “trim” the controls. In other words, you want the plane to track straight and true, but you might find that initially the plane may dive, climb, or turn a bit on it’s own. You will find buttons or sliders next to the control sticks corresponding to a control axis. One click at a time, move the trim controls in the opposite direction you are trying to correct. If the RC plane climbs, you would push the elevator trim up, or forwards. If the plane turns to one side, you may need to trim  the rudder or aileron controls the opposite direction until the plane flies straight. You will need to re-trim the plane any time you change battery size or make any weight altercations to the plane or after an accident.

Learning to fly takes serious muscle memory. While you may be used to banging your RC controller steering wheel around to get your truck to do what you want, experienced fliers will tell you smooth flight comes from small, controlled motions on the sticks. Ease in and out of your maneuvers, avoid aggressive quick movements, and always remember to steer out of your turns to return to level flight. That tip is especially important when you start to fly 4-channel planes.

This article could literally be 50 pages long as there are so many different aspects to learn about RC flight. Hopefully we’ve encouraged you to get off the sidelines and get your first bird in the air. Ask any RC fanatic that flies, once you’re up in the sky, it’s hard to come back to the ground!  Check out the many planes & jets we have available at atomik-RC.com! Do you have a question for us? Need help with something? Did we miss something in this article? Leave us a comment below and we’ll do our best to get back to you!

Article by: Jeff Simon

Make sure your downtime isn’t frowntime: What to do when the weather won’t cooperate.

So, Christmas is over, the New Year is here, and we’re all itching to get back into the swing of things when it comes to our hobby. Now, if you’re not one of those lucky individuals that lives in an area where the weather’s moderate year round, you may be clawing at the snow drift on your local track or chipping away at the local lake hoping to somehow accelerate the spring thaw. While it’s easy to complain about the weather, there’s actually some maintenance you could be doing to prep yourself for the best RC season ever! Here are a few creative ideas to get you thinking about something OTHER than not being able to run your RC’s…

1. MAINTENANCE! It’s a subject we constantly bring up, but it’s also one that often gets neglected in favor of upgrades or new projects. In reality, there are very few of us that tear our vehicle completely down for inspection unless something breaks. It can be a very rewarding experience to disassemble, clean, inspect, and reassemble your RC. Here are a few helpful tips when taking on such a task.

First, have your vehicle’s manual handy. Most manufacturers, including ATOMIK, will provide their manuals online if you happen to have lost yours. This will make sure you can identify every screw and nut you remove as well as provide you with part numbers should you find something that needs to be replaced.

Keeping a box of zip-lock bags and a marker around will ensure you can keep track of those small parts and where they came from. Many hobbyists will use a muffin tin to keep track of similar sized screws and parts. (Just don’t do what I did and knock that tin off your workbench sending your parts tumbling in a metallic waterfall of sadness.)

Inspect plastics for cracks or signs of wear. Inspect bearings to ensure they are spinning freely and wipe everything down with a damp cloth. Once you’ve assembled your vehicle back to running condition and you’re looking at a practically new truck, you’ll wonder why you didn’t do a complete teardown sooner.

Boat guys! I know you might think this doesn’t apply to you, but it DOES. For your maintenance, check out this blog post on how to keep your marine RC running great.

2. UPGRADES!  Bad weather means more bench time, and what better way to spend your bench time (if you’ve already done your maintenance, that is!) than performing some upgrades! Your stock rig is just BEGGING for more performance! What better way than to throw in a new motor or motor/speed control combo?  (Dare I say that you should check out OUR awesome motors like this 4 pole 2400KV from our 8th scale SCT.)

Need better handling? Learn the fine art of shock tuning. Changing the oil in your shocks is not only an easy way to alter the performance of your RC; it’s inexpensive too! Shock oil is generally around $5 a bottle, or you can get variety packs for around $20.

The off-season is also a great time to prep new wheels and tires. Sure you can glue rubber to plastic with the best of them, but have you ever balanced your RC wheels/tires?  Check out this great video from Squirrel over at thetoyz.com.

Wanting a new look without buying a new RC? Pick up a new body to paint! If you do plan on painting in cold weather, watch your ambient temperature. Too cold and your paint might not apply properly. A little trick to make sure your paint always comes out smooth is to soak your paint cans in warm water before shaking and spraying the heat from the water will warm the paint in the cans allowing for smoother delivery of the paint. There are lots of YouTube tutorials on how to create amazing paint jobs.

SIMULATORS! They’re not just for airplane guys anymore! Keep your RC skills sharp through the cold months by battling on the track with your PC. VirtualRC.com has not only on-road racing, but recently, they just added short course racing to their bag of tricks. By purchasing their USB transponder, you can use your own radio gear to practice laps in the warm comfort of your home office or living room.  No turn marshals required!

Hopefully this gets you thinking about RC related fun that can be had without actually powering up your RC. If you have any other suggestions, be sure to give us a comment below! Be safe, ask questions and have FUN! –Jeff Simon

Understanding a “Waterproof” R/C Car and the Maintenance Required

How your waterproof R/C isn’t really waterproof.

I know this isn’t what you want to hear, but it’s the honest truth. You just spent an extra $70 for the waterproof version of your favorite RC so you can be running worry free in all types of weather, and you can, but what your extra investment is buying you will generally be a water resistant speed control, receiver case and a sealed servo. What it’s not buying you is a submarine on wheels capable of surviving titanic style submersions or even casual exposure to the elements without some routine maintenance (and possibly a little extra if you’re planning that Titanic re-enactment.) Please refer to your vehicles manual for specific instructions for routine maintenance, but this article will give you some good ideas on what to maintain when running your vehicle in an H2O rich environment. If you want a good analogy to live by when it comes to waterproof R/C’s, here it is:

Your waterproof R/C is like your pair of waterproof boots. You can go splash around in the puddles all day long and keep your feet dry but bring a fresh pair of socks if you plan on standing in a river.

First, your receiver, speed control, servo and battery,.

Most waterproof vehicles don’t have an actual waterproof receiver; they have a receiver box that will keep most of the water out in wet driving conditions. You should be checking your radio box every time you run in water to make sure that no moisture made its way in. If it did, you need to dry this area out before running your vehicle again. Moisture can be removed from hard to reach places by putting a small pouch of rice in a coffee filter (closed with a rubber band) and placing it in the compartment for several hours. Some popular waterproof R/C’s use a sealant for the radio box where the wires enter. This must be maintained every time the enclosure is opened to ensure water cannot enter. See your vehicles manual for more information on what sealant to use.

Many boats and rock crawlers will use a balloon to protect from water as a last resort, which can work, but any h2O that made its way in will STAY in the balloon causing problems down the road. If you are using balloons, plan to use a fresh one anytime you feel water may have come in contact with the balloon.

“Waterproof” speed control s are still susceptible to the effects of rust on the motor connectors, battery terminals, on/off switch as well as any exposed metal surfaces. These ESC’s will often have a rubber cover over the on/ off switch, but this should be checked regularly as any trapped moisture can cause failure in future runs.

Servos will usually have rubber gaskets keeping the water out, but these gaskets can get damaged if you are constantly “going big” with your RC and you should inspect your servo periodically to make sure these seals are intact.

Batteries can be tricky. When speaking about NiMH and LiPO batteries, the individual cells themselves are completely self contained and waterproof. The parts that are NOT water resistant (or more specifically, rust resistant) however are the solder tabs that connect the cells together to create your “pack”. These tabs, when corroded, cause higher resistance which leads to higher temperatures, lower C ratings and failed cells. In a NiMH battery you will have many more solder tabs as these packs will be generally 6-8 cells. LiPO cells will have 2-6 cells for most land applications with the average hobbyists using 2 and 3 cell packs, meaning half as many tabs as NiMH packs and half the opportunity for corrosion.

The flip side is the economics of the batteries themselves. NiMH packs are budget friendly ($20-$60) where a quality LiPO can set you back considerably more ($50-$200). Water damage will void practically all battery manufacturers’ warranty (That is, except VENOM. You will always get a MINIMUM 30% discount on a similar battery no matter what the battery condition. If it’s within the first 12 months, you may qualify for a free replacement; see our warranty information for more details.) The best advice that can be given would be to keep water out of your batteries as much as possible. If you DO get water in your hard case or battery wrap do your best to remove the moisture to help prevent the possibility or corrosion in the future.

Rust loves a procrastinator.

Rust is the enemy of every piece of metal on your vehicle. From the bearings, the screws, the axles, the gears, battery connectors, the metal components in your battery, speed control and servo, all of these components are equally susceptible to the effects of corrosion. The easiest path to a rusty R/C is to put it away wet. If you have access to one, use an air compressor to spray away the water clinging to your rig. If that’s not available to help blow the water away, a can of compressed air will do wonders in a pinch. Just a few rusty bearings can do anything from causing annoying squeaks to increasing resistance causing ESC or battery failure.

Waterproof does not mean indestructible.

If you go camping in December vs. camping in July chances are you’re going to have completely different gear.  Heavier sleeping bags, warmer clothes, you would prepare for the conditions. With your RC, you’re going to need different “gear” if you’re going to survive a wet environment. Specifically, we’re going to focus on the pinion and spur gear. Now, if you’re just running in a wet environment, with a small puddle here and there and you’re vehicle is “waterproof” rated, stock gearing should be fine. When you plan on running in thick mud, heavy snow, or adding bigger or heavier tires, you need to use a smaller pinion gear (the gear attached to the shaft of the motor) or a larger spur (the gear that the pinion gear “meshes” with. Consult your vehicles manual, or talk with your local hobby shop for more information on gearing your particular vehicle.

So that’s it! Hopefully this gives you a better idea on what to upkeep on your brushless, waterproof vehicles, for many seasons of trouble free fun. As always, if you have any questions for the crew here at Atomik/Venom, please let us know in the comments below!

Happy Thanksgiving from Atomik!!

Annual FACTORY DIRECT Sale – Rathdrum, ID

Friday, Saturday and Sunday!! 9-3

Our doors are open and we are selling everything but the kitchen sink. Discontinued items, ding and dent items, old and new RC models, plugs, wires, motors, batteries, sailboats, rc cars, rc trucks, rc heli’s, etc.

2011 Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series Driver of the Year and Metal Mulisha founder Brian “The General” Deegan took his second consecutive championship title this weekend at The Firebird International Raceway in the Pro 2 Unlimited series.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

October 29, 2012 – (Temecula, CA) – 2011 Lucas Oil Off Road Racing Series Driver of the Year and Metal Mulisha founder Brian “The General”  Deegan took his second consecutive championship title this weekend at The Firebird International Raceway in the Pro 2 Unlimited series.

Today the new Whiplash 24 from Atomik showed up at my door!

Submitted and Written by: Bill Oxidean

Features of the Atomik Whiplash 24″ Electric RTR RC Boat:

  • 2200kv Brushless motor
  • 50a water cooled water proof ESC
  • water cooled motor
  • micro servo
  • water resistant radio box
  • 2200 20c lipo battery and charger.

At first glance:

Along with the elegant styling of the hull the “All American” red, white, and blue graphics were immediately visually grabbing.

MM450 Reviews still comin’ in…

8/21/2012
By Mike Garrison
LiveRC.com
As some of you may know I grew up racing motocross. I spent every moment of every day living, breathing, and dreaming motocross. As I got a little older, 2 plates, 4 screws, 2 titanium rods, 2 bone grafts, and 1 wheelchair later…it has occurred to me that while motocross is an amazing sport, it can be slightly hard on the body and perhaps not quite as safe as R/C racing. What a wonderful world we would live in if only there were some way to combine the thrill of motocross with safety, fun, and excitement of R/C.
Late last week we received a package in the mail. As I began to open it I realized my dreams had come true…inside this box was a little motocross miracle! Under all the bubble wrap and packing peanuts was the all-new Atomik R/C Metal Mulisha Brian Deegan MM450 1/4 scale dirtbike!

Metal Mulisha RC Dirtbike Review on RC Driver

Great review of the Metal Mulisha MM450 RC DirtBike on RC Driver

Shortly after reading the October 2012 Issue of RC Driver I headed down to my local HobbyTown USA in Centennial, Colorado to see what I needed for my latest project.  When I walked through the door, one of the employees told me they had just gotten in the new Atomik RC Brian Deegan MM 450 Dirt Bike, the same bike that Paul Onorato had review on page 60 of the latest issue of RC Driver.  We proceeded to talk and they offered to let me take the bike for a spin.  I admit I was a bit timid at first, I have had other RC motorcycles in the past and I have broken my fair share of parts trying to perform the delicate balancing act of trying to keep the bike up on two wheels.  At the same time I also had flashbacks of the magazine article and Paul indicating that with a little practice driving the bike became easier and that even with some horrific wrecks the bike stood up to the abuse, so I said “let’s do it!”

See the rest of the story here:
http://www.rcdriver.com/rcd/index.php/atomik-rc-brian-deegan-mm-450-dirt-bike/

Learn more about the bike here:
http://www.atomik-rc.com/Brian-Deegan-Metal-Mulisha-MM-450-R-C-Dirtbike.html

Atomik Metal Mulisha Brian Deegan 1:18 Scale Ford Fiesta RTR RC Rally Car Release

Atomik Metal Mulisha Brian Deegan 1:18 Scale Ford Fiesta RTR RC Rally Car

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Metal Mulisha Brian Deegan RC Rally Car

Metal Mulisha Brian Deegan 1:18th Scale RC Rally Car

Ride shotgun with “The General” in the new Atomik Brian Deegan Metal Mulisha 1/18th 4×4 Ford Fiesta Rally Car. Officially licensed by Ford, the Brian Deegan

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