Category RC Cars and Trucks

Make sure your downtime isn’t frowntime: What to do when the weather won’t cooperate.

So, Christmas is over, the New Year is here, and we’re all itching to get back into the swing of things when it comes to our hobby. Now, if you’re not one of those lucky individuals that lives in an area where the weather’s moderate year round, you may be clawing at the snow drift on your local track or chipping away at the local lake hoping to somehow accelerate the spring thaw. While it’s easy to complain about the weather, there’s actually some maintenance you could be doing to prep yourself for the best RC season ever! Here are a few creative ideas to get you thinking about something OTHER than not being able to run your RC’s…

1. MAINTENANCE! It’s a subject we constantly bring up, but it’s also one that often gets neglected in favor of upgrades or new projects. In reality, there are very few of us that tear our vehicle completely down for inspection unless something breaks. It can be a very rewarding experience to disassemble, clean, inspect, and reassemble your RC. Here are a few helpful tips when taking on such a task.

First, have your vehicle’s manual handy. Most manufacturers, including ATOMIK, will provide their manuals online if you happen to have lost yours. This will make sure you can identify every screw and nut you remove as well as provide you with part numbers should you find something that needs to be replaced.

Keeping a box of zip-lock bags and a marker around will ensure you can keep track of those small parts and where they came from. Many hobbyists will use a muffin tin to keep track of similar sized screws and parts. (Just don’t do what I did and knock that tin off your workbench sending your parts tumbling in a metallic waterfall of sadness.)

Inspect plastics for cracks or signs of wear. Inspect bearings to ensure they are spinning freely and wipe everything down with a damp cloth. Once you’ve assembled your vehicle back to running condition and you’re looking at a practically new truck, you’ll wonder why you didn’t do a complete teardown sooner.

Boat guys! I know you might think this doesn’t apply to you, but it DOES. For your maintenance, check out this blog post on how to keep your marine RC running great.

2. UPGRADES!  Bad weather means more bench time, and what better way to spend your bench time (if you’ve already done your maintenance, that is!) than performing some upgrades! Your stock rig is just BEGGING for more performance! What better way than to throw in a new motor or motor/speed control combo?  (Dare I say that you should check out OUR awesome motors like this 4 pole 2400KV from our 8th scale SCT.)

Need better handling? Learn the fine art of shock tuning. Changing the oil in your shocks is not only an easy way to alter the performance of your RC; it’s inexpensive too! Shock oil is generally around $5 a bottle, or you can get variety packs for around $20.

The off-season is also a great time to prep new wheels and tires. Sure you can glue rubber to plastic with the best of them, but have you ever balanced your RC wheels/tires?  Check out this great video from Squirrel over at thetoyz.com.

Wanting a new look without buying a new RC? Pick up a new body to paint! If you do plan on painting in cold weather, watch your ambient temperature. Too cold and your paint might not apply properly. A little trick to make sure your paint always comes out smooth is to soak your paint cans in warm water before shaking and spraying the heat from the water will warm the paint in the cans allowing for smoother delivery of the paint. There are lots of YouTube tutorials on how to create amazing paint jobs.

SIMULATORS! They’re not just for airplane guys anymore! Keep your RC skills sharp through the cold months by battling on the track with your PC. VirtualRC.com has not only on-road racing, but recently, they just added short course racing to their bag of tricks. By purchasing their USB transponder, you can use your own radio gear to practice laps in the warm comfort of your home office or living room.  No turn marshals required!

Hopefully this gets you thinking about RC related fun that can be had without actually powering up your RC. If you have any other suggestions, be sure to give us a comment below! Be safe, ask questions and have FUN! –Jeff Simon

Understanding a “Waterproof” R/C Car and the Maintenance Required

How your waterproof R/C isn’t really waterproof.

I know this isn’t what you want to hear, but it’s the honest truth. You just spent an extra $70 for the waterproof version of your favorite RC so you can be running worry free in all types of weather, and you can, but what your extra investment is buying you will generally be a water resistant speed control, receiver case and a sealed servo. What it’s not buying you is a submarine on wheels capable of surviving titanic style submersions or even casual exposure to the elements without some routine maintenance (and possibly a little extra if you’re planning that Titanic re-enactment.) Please refer to your vehicles manual for specific instructions for routine maintenance, but this article will give you some good ideas on what to maintain when running your vehicle in an H2O rich environment. If you want a good analogy to live by when it comes to waterproof R/C’s, here it is:

Your waterproof R/C is like your pair of waterproof boots. You can go splash around in the puddles all day long and keep your feet dry but bring a fresh pair of socks if you plan on standing in a river.

First, your receiver, speed control, servo and battery,.

Most waterproof vehicles don’t have an actual waterproof receiver; they have a receiver box that will keep most of the water out in wet driving conditions. You should be checking your radio box every time you run in water to make sure that no moisture made its way in. If it did, you need to dry this area out before running your vehicle again. Moisture can be removed from hard to reach places by putting a small pouch of rice in a coffee filter (closed with a rubber band) and placing it in the compartment for several hours. Some popular waterproof R/C’s use a sealant for the radio box where the wires enter. This must be maintained every time the enclosure is opened to ensure water cannot enter. See your vehicles manual for more information on what sealant to use.

Many boats and rock crawlers will use a balloon to protect from water as a last resort, which can work, but any h2O that made its way in will STAY in the balloon causing problems down the road. If you are using balloons, plan to use a fresh one anytime you feel water may have come in contact with the balloon.

“Waterproof” speed control s are still susceptible to the effects of rust on the motor connectors, battery terminals, on/off switch as well as any exposed metal surfaces. These ESC’s will often have a rubber cover over the on/ off switch, but this should be checked regularly as any trapped moisture can cause failure in future runs.

Servos will usually have rubber gaskets keeping the water out, but these gaskets can get damaged if you are constantly “going big” with your RC and you should inspect your servo periodically to make sure these seals are intact.

Batteries can be tricky. When speaking about NiMH and LiPO batteries, the individual cells themselves are completely self contained and waterproof. The parts that are NOT water resistant (or more specifically, rust resistant) however are the solder tabs that connect the cells together to create your “pack”. These tabs, when corroded, cause higher resistance which leads to higher temperatures, lower C ratings and failed cells. In a NiMH battery you will have many more solder tabs as these packs will be generally 6-8 cells. LiPO cells will have 2-6 cells for most land applications with the average hobbyists using 2 and 3 cell packs, meaning half as many tabs as NiMH packs and half the opportunity for corrosion.

The flip side is the economics of the batteries themselves. NiMH packs are budget friendly ($20-$60) where a quality LiPO can set you back considerably more ($50-$200). Water damage will void practically all battery manufacturers’ warranty (That is, except VENOM. You will always get a MINIMUM 30% discount on a similar battery no matter what the battery condition. If it’s within the first 12 months, you may qualify for a free replacement; see our warranty information for more details.) The best advice that can be given would be to keep water out of your batteries as much as possible. If you DO get water in your hard case or battery wrap do your best to remove the moisture to help prevent the possibility or corrosion in the future.

Rust loves a procrastinator.

Rust is the enemy of every piece of metal on your vehicle. From the bearings, the screws, the axles, the gears, battery connectors, the metal components in your battery, speed control and servo, all of these components are equally susceptible to the effects of corrosion. The easiest path to a rusty R/C is to put it away wet. If you have access to one, use an air compressor to spray away the water clinging to your rig. If that’s not available to help blow the water away, a can of compressed air will do wonders in a pinch. Just a few rusty bearings can do anything from causing annoying squeaks to increasing resistance causing ESC or battery failure.

Waterproof does not mean indestructible.

If you go camping in December vs. camping in July chances are you’re going to have completely different gear.  Heavier sleeping bags, warmer clothes, you would prepare for the conditions. With your RC, you’re going to need different “gear” if you’re going to survive a wet environment. Specifically, we’re going to focus on the pinion and spur gear. Now, if you’re just running in a wet environment, with a small puddle here and there and you’re vehicle is “waterproof” rated, stock gearing should be fine. When you plan on running in thick mud, heavy snow, or adding bigger or heavier tires, you need to use a smaller pinion gear (the gear attached to the shaft of the motor) or a larger spur (the gear that the pinion gear “meshes” with. Consult your vehicles manual, or talk with your local hobby shop for more information on gearing your particular vehicle.

So that’s it! Hopefully this gives you a better idea on what to upkeep on your brushless, waterproof vehicles, for many seasons of trouble free fun. As always, if you have any questions for the crew here at Atomik/Venom, please let us know in the comments below!

Venom Dominates at the Capitol City Classic!

Event Name: Capital City Classic, NCT Stop #3
Location: Boise, Idaho
Event Dates: June 29th – July 1st, 2012

After a 6.5-hour drive from Venom HQ to Boise, Idaho, Venom arrived at stop number 3 on the Northwest Championship Tour (NCT).
Temperatures were reaching 90+ degrees all weekend, and up to 123 degrees inside the Venom pits…. boy was it a hot one! With 4 of Venom’s top northwest factory drivers in attendance, we were all anxious to see how the weekend would turn out.

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